Pages worth keeping

A few useful notes
before you go.

Transport, accommodation, and the pleasures of the table. Practical advice, with the tradeoffs explained.

Transport

Understand ticket types, choose the right station, and leave space around your transfer.

Accommodation

A thoughtful base can change every morning and evening of your trip.

Food & culture

Read the menu, follow regional clues, and enjoy eating without a rulebook.

A few useful notesbefore you go.